With the ramped up busyness of life these days, I’ve had a bit less time for my favorite brewed beverage – instead of “always”, it’s been more like “I’ve almost always got time for coffee”. When there just isn’t enough time or motivation to craft a pour-over, or warm up and clean up the espresso machine, often out come the pods. I’m a little less of a K-Cup fan as I used to be. Environmental impact aside (they do have compostable third-party producers now), the original Keurig process doesn’t quite match up to tried-and-true coffee brew methods. It’s fast, yes, but doesn’t seem to have the balance of extraction pressure akin to an Aeropress or even espresso. Even so, it remarkably makes a decent cup of joe, and I would still take it over most diner or hotel coffee. My current favorites are Peets, Trader Joes Ethiopian blend (yes!), and the original Donut Shop (most of the time).
Then I decided to revisit Nespresso, the other pod, less popular in the States, but apparently the go-to in Europe. My first encounter was with an add-on adapter for my Nanopresso portable hand-pump espresso maker. The Nanopresso is an amazing little contraption that makes backcountry barista-dom possible, and after an affordable trial run with Trader Joes Lungo Nespresso pods, I discovered this was the real deal – finicky, but nonetheless real espresso. I eventually decided to add an official, powered machine to my lineup, the basic and compact Essenza Mini, and I haven’t looked back! The Nespresso process more-or-less follows a pressurized portafilter espresso preparation, and at least to me, the results are truer to taste than a K-Cup. As good as a good semi-auto hand-pulled shot? Certainly not, but it couldn’t be easier, especially when there’s not much time for anything else. The machine produces either “Espresso” or “Lungo” volumes, with a coffee/grind dose that seems equivalent to a single shot. Pods are relatively expensive for this amount, but I guess it’s a European quality to portion ratio! My favorite best value is Target’s lineup – lots of choices, currently $4.99 for a pack of 10. And when life’s a bit slower, or the crave is there on an evening or weekend morning, I’ll still fire up the “old” semi-auto and get grinding and tamping.
Breville Infuser with portafilter and Luxhaus tamper
It was time for something a bit more serious. As I introduced in my previous Upping the (Coffee) Cup post, my journey into semi-automatic espresso making had been a blast using the great value (100 buck) DeLonghi EC155m machine, paired with the capable Breville Smart Grinder Pro. Even though it required more effort and time, and despite the EC155’s cramped size, there’s nothing quite like extracting that pressure punch of coffee goodness using beans you ground, tamped, and timed yourself. But there was some finickiness that began plaguing my process, inherent in single boiler machines, especially small ones like the DeLonghi – temperature swing! As a former coffee newbie, I had to learn about the importance of temperature in brewing good coffee – too cold = sour, too hot = bitter, and don’t even think about scalding those grounds using boiling water! (200 deg F is roughly the target standard) Equipped with a more-or-less basic thermostat, single boiler machines can over or undershoot a set temperature. This is particularly true after pulling an espresso shot, where the boiler needs to refill and reheat water, or after steaming, where the boiler needs to cool from the higher steam temperature. In these cases it is typical to run some water through the brew head or steam/water outlet, or “temperature surf” the machine to a cooler or more stable temperature before pulling the next shot. With the EC155, I began noticing excessive steam or “flash boiling” when I flushed the head after a shot, indicating that it was likely above temperature and over extracting the coffee – my taste buds could also tell something was off. Giving the machine more time to warm up, and descaling it seemed to help a bit, but is was still touchy. So are single boiler machines too much trouble? Fancier models tackle temperature stability with PID algorithm controllers, but that can get expensive, and most commercial, cafe machines are massive (thermally) and have multiple, dedicated boilers for brewing and steaming. It seemed worth it to look at affordable alternatives and upgrades.
A common alternative to single boilers is the thermoblock or thermocoil machine, which heats water in-line or somewhat “on demand” – this can add stability, at the cost of reduced speed and capacity. I turned again to Breville, after re-watching a Seattle Coffee Gear review of top budget espresso makers, which put the DeLonghi EC155 and Dedica (single boilers) with the Breville Duo Temp Pro (a thermocoil, and most expensive of the three). Already owning a Smart Grinder Pro, I’ve come to appreciate Breville’s balance of user friendliness and performance. The Duo Temp Pro has programmable shot volumes, a decent traditional steam wand (yay over the EC155!), and simple PID temperature control – nice! For some reason I had difficulty locating this machine in stock (perhaps being discontinued), and so I looked to its slightly more expensive, and also well reviewed big sibling, the Breville Infuser. This model adds a pre-infusion phase (pre-soaking coffee grounds for better uniformity), dedicated hot water outlet, and basic pressure gauge to check how suitable and consistent your grind and tamp are. And so after waiting a bit to check prices, I went for it, and put the DeLonghi into hibernation.
So how has the switch and upgrade to the Infuser been? It certainly presents itself as more of a “standard” home espresso maker, with nice curb appeal and solid components. I particularly like the heft of the 54 mm portafilter (includes non-pressurized and pressurized filter baskets!), and real/traditional steam wand (I can actually attempt latte art now). The programmable shot volumes (come pre-programmed) are super convenient, the machine auto-purges/cools itself after steaming, and the PID temperature control seems to be doing its job (no more hissing dragons!) And the drinks? Not bad, a good amount of crema, and seemingly richer and more caffeinated (fuller extraction?) But I’m also more aware of inconsistencies in my preparation. The Infuser’s pressure gauge has been a mixed blessing, and window to this. Getting that needle centered in the “Espresso Range” can be challenging, and given that the machine is dutifully controlling temperature and volume for me, it indicates wiggle room on my coffee, grind, and tamp – my taste buds seem to be able to tell! And so there’s work to be done, but that’s the craft of espresso and coffee making, and while the experimenting and learning continue, at least the cups remain drinkable and earned! The Infuser has put me more fully in the game.
Beans
It all still starts with good, fresh roasted coffee beans. For espresso, I’ve become loyal to Jones JC Espresso as my more-or-less go-to blend, which I appreciate being able to buy in smaller half pound batches at their local cafe and roastery. I’ve also tried and liked their Cara Mia, as well as Intelligentsia’s Black Cat blend (though my bag was store bought and not as fresh). I just picked up a bag of Copa Vida’s Grace Espresso, also roasted locally, and am eager to try it based on their top notch cafe preparations (still the best Americano around – kind of like my benchmark drink!) As far as beans for regular brewing (pour-overs), I’m still a fan of Jones Madison and recently their Chuck Roast blend. My wife has become a big fan of Philz Coffee (I like it too), and I brought home a bag to make at home. I think it’s starting to convert her to the better side of coffee!
DeLonghi EC155m Semi-Automatic Espresso Machine with Non-Pressurized Basket
It was time. As a now verifiable coffee geek, I long ago retired my auto drip brewer and moved into the manual territory of whole bean grinding, pour-overs, and Aeropressed drinks. Yes, I still have my K-cup machine for those mornings where there just isn’t time for anything else, but I’ll easily trade that for a fresh-ground, weighed, Kalita Wave (pour-over) brew when I do! Being a home barista has become a hobby, passion, and practical retreat for me, though when I think of a typical cafe barista, it always includes the sights and sounds of a large shiny machine with knobs and pressure gauge, portafilter, and steam wand. I love the intense, rich experience of espresso, but making such a drink myself has seemed out of reach, and not for the faint of heart or wallet. (Starbucks wouldn’t be the giant it is without its espresso lineup, right?) It would take baby steps then… Fortunately, a good friend and founder/owner of the Copa Vida cafes handed down his DeLonghi Magnifica super-automatic machine for me to use (quite an honor from such a coffee aficionado!) It was like a magical box in my kitchen, that just required beans and water, and dispensed shots of hot espresso at the push of a button, ready for mixing a tasty Americano or steaming milk for a latte (which admittedly isn’t that automatic). I thoroughly enjoyed this piece of cafe paradise, but then it became a bit too predictable, a bit too safe. I still longed to move into full barista-dom, learn to pull my own espresso shots, take some risks, and see what extra goodness I might be missing out on! It was time for a semi-automatic machine and setup.
The Grinder
I need to start here, though admittedly I traded over my machine first! Every coffee expert I’ve come across would likely advocate that a good burr coffee grinder is one of the most important investments in the craft. Next to quality, fresh roasted beans, you just can’t expect much if the grinds aren’t controlled and consistent, even using hundreds of dollars of nice brew equipment. This is especially true of espresso, where grind size is one of the critical variables in extracting a good shot. I love my Baratza Encore – it’s a solid workhorse, a great value, and one of the undisputed winners in serious entry level grinding. It’s transformed my pour-overs, however with only 40 grind click settings, it just doesn’t have enough precision to dial in espresso shots, at least with non-pressurized portafilter baskets – more on that later (my favorite coffee sites/channels, Seattle Coffee Gear and Whole Latte Love have some nice commentary on the Encore’s capabilities). And so my continuing quest for value led me to the Breville lineup, first the Dose Control Pro and then ultimately its fancier sibling, the Smart Grinder Pro. Breville engineers seem to have made a great entry into the coffee/espresso market, designing for solid performance and everyday usability. At just about $200 (I know, but you can spend a lot more on a serious grinder!), it offers 60 grind click settings, programmable timed doses, a digital display, and cool extras such as a lock-off bean hopper (to easily remove unused beans), two magnetic portafilter holders, and a removable catch tray. It’s not as powerful as the Encore, but easier on the ears, and more importantly delivers consistent fine grinds that are simple to adjust – so far a winner!
Breville Smart Grinder Pro
The Machine
And now on to the better known part of the process, the semi-automatic espresso machine. Compared to a fully or super-automatic maker that does just about everything for you with consistency, a semi-auto provides hot water, a pump, filter, and steam, and lets you control much of the rest. I’m learning that espresso is a very exacting method of making coffee, largely because it happens so fast (less than 30 seconds) and leaves little room for error. The key element is probably pressure (espresso), and done right, results in a taste like no other! Given the hot water pumped from any espresso machine, this pressure is typically created by resistance from the coffee (in a removable portafilter) of a certain dose (amount), grind size, and tamp (packing). Setting and controlling these variables is critical, and generally you know you’ve got a good setup if you can pull a 2 to 2.5 oz double shot of espresso in about 20 to 25 seconds. If the flow is too fast, the dose can be increased, grind made (dialed in) finer, or tamp force increased, and vice-versa. So why not have a super-auto machine do all of this for you? I guess it’s a matter of preference. Convenience and consistency often come at the cost of some quality and control of your product. Taste and recipe are also subjective. Prepackaged food and beverages can be good, but there’s always the allure and adventure of making them better!
As with grinders, there are many decent espresso makers to choose from, and many price points. Machines such as the Gaggia Classic and Rancilio Silvia are hailed as serious entry level contenders, but those will set you back about $400 and $700. Not ready for that type of investment yet, I had been curious about the DeLonghi EC155 (currently EC155m). At just a tad under $100, it’s been in the stock of many retailers for a while, and has gained a best-bang-for-the-buck reputation. It’s small and basic, but sports quality elements such as a single stainless steel boiler, has a strong following in the hack and modification community, and most importantly is capable of good espresso. Being a value (or cheap) minded coffee geek myself, it seemed like a low risk no-brainer, and so I picked one up from my local Target. So far, about a month in, it’s been fun and overall worth retiring the Magnifica to a new home. And the drinks, at least more often than not, have been tastier or at least harder earned! Here are the details of my current setup: Special thanks to great online resources such as the coffegeek.com forum, Ethan Zonca’s Delonghi EC155 Resources, and 101coffeemachines.info.
Portafilter: This is the component of the EC155 that appears to be most often hacked or modified. Like many entry level espresso machines, the stock model comes with pressurized portafilter baskets. This is a bit of an automatic function that only releases coffee when a minimum pressure is reached. It more or less guarantees a drinkable espresso, but takes importance away from grind size and tamp typically used to control this, and optimal extraction. A pressurized basket is kind of like a set of training wheels, and most experts would probably say keeps you from making true espresso. So off with the wheels! The simplest de-pressurization hack from the community seems to be removing the pressure release valve, and so I purchased an extra double basket and popped this section out. The other popular modification is to replace the whole basket with a same diameter DeLonghi or other manufacturer part – most seem to require removing or cutting part of the bottom of the portafilter holder off. Hmm… too much. While getting tastier results using the de-pressurized filter, I had discovered the 101coffeemachines blog and existence of a European version of the EC155, the EC145 that comes stock with a non-pressurized basket! I needed to order this basket from the U.K. via eBay, but was thrilled to discover it fit in my portafilter perfectly – no mods! So how has it been without the training wheels? I definitely had to decrease my grind size (currently at 20 on the Smart Grinder) and increase to a moderate tamp pressure to slow the extraction. I’m still learning to keep things consistent, but the drinks have been decent – maybe not as much crema, but real crema, and a handmade “essence” that just makes them better and pulling the shots more enjoyable!
Tamper: This simple tool used to uniformly pack ground coffee into the portafilter basket is perhaps the hallmark of a barista and most “manual” part of espresso preparation. The EC155 includes a built-in tamping device near the brew head, but it really can’t provide the control and consistency needed for a non-pressurized setup. I’m currently using a BlueSnail 51 mm Stainless Steel Coffee Tamper from Amazon. 30 pounds of force is the more-or-less standard, but I’ve been using a more moderate amount, followed by a short twist to get that polished puck surface. Consistency, along with grind, is more key!
Steam wand: The one main drawback to the EC155 seems to be its steam wand. It’s just too short (on an already short machine), has limited range of motion, and working a pitcher underneath it can be a chore. The wand also has a stock plastic panarello tip, which “auto-froths” or injects extra air into your milk via holes on top. This might work well for a foamy cappuccino, but getting micro-foam for a latte difficult. A manual, single hole tip is preferable, but unfortunately not a ready option. The easiest hack I’ve learned of is to plug the holes with toothpicks, and it does help decrease the foaming. I also tried a recommended La Pavoni single hole tip from Orphan Espresso, with same M6 thread – it gave a nice steam output, but left the wand almost unusably short. The all-in modification is to replace the whole arm with a Rancilio Silvia wand (the real deal), but requires some warranty-voiding tampering – too much at the moment! And so I’m back to the stock panarello for now. Some in the community have cut the shell off to reveal the basic tip, but I just don’t steam enough yet for any other such hacks. It’s still a great little machine for 100 bucks!
Coffee beans: As with my pour-overs, I continued my search for good, fresh roasted beans and hit a nice spot. Jones Coffee Roasters, not too far from where I live, has a laid back cafe and on-site roastery where I can buy roasts as fresh as that day! I’ve become a fan of their staple Madison blend for brewing, and now JC Espresso blend for my shots. I’m still on the lookout for new discoveries, but for now it’s closed a nice circle to my semi-automatic conversion.
Pulling my own shots has been a blast so far. I’m feeling a bit more like my imagined barista, and sense just how much more there is to learn and try. The quest and adventure continues.
A Work in Process 